Saturday, November 7, 2009

Historical Paddle Paintings - Frederick A. Verner

Found 3 more historical paintings documenting native paddle designs. Frederick A Verner (February 26, 1836 – May 16, 1928) was a prolific painter of Canadian landscape who also portrayed some native groups in his art. All three pieces below have some sort of painted decoration, either on the tip or the recurring chevron theme seen documented in earlier posts.

Ojibway Indian Encampment
by Frederick Arthur Verner, 1873

Object number : MS2004.066
Macdonald Stewart Art Centre, Guelph, Ontario

Source Link




Paddle closeup






Two Indians Paddling through Bullrushes(1893 )
Frederick A. Verner
watercolour over graphite on wove paper
16.7 x 13.9 cm
National Gallery of Canada (no. 16843)



Paddle Closeup





A Misty Morning (1905)
Frederick A. Verner
watercolour over graphite on wove paper
27.1 x 53.7 cm
National Gallery of Canada (no. 165)


Paddle Closeup



Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Bushcraft Style Cedar Paddle - Lessons Learned

Last summer I attempted a bushcraft style paddle hewn from a log with an axe and shaped with a crooked knife. It was a mini paddle meant as practice and it turned out to be a nice little toy for the boy. Earlier this year, I endeavoured to make a full sized one to go with the bark canoe. I wasn't going to post about this attempt due to the fact it ended being an utter failure, but figured maybe the lessons learned could be useful to someone attempting the same thing. So here goes...

Sourcing out the cedar proved to be a hassle again as most of the cedar in my area grows on very uneven terrain and tends to have a pronounced twist. I managed to find some downed trees at the top of cliff-face and decided to try and cut out a log from the knot free section of the tree in the foreground.


Tumbled cedar mess


Cutting with the one-handed crosscut

The terrain was quite hilly and with diffult footing I managed to cut the portion out with a 32" one handed crosscut saw, albeit on an angle. I figured I could clean up the ends after the log had been removed to more secure ground. A giant boulder behind the scenes served as a perfect area to support the log for various extra cuts and splitting the wood. At one point, I climbed up on top of the rock and then could easily split the log with old axe heads and a froe. Despite the pronounced twist on one side, 4 planks were salvaged that seemed to usuable to work with.


Splitting by the boulder; 4 usable pieces

The most suited piece was selected and roughly hewn into a paddle shape with a distinct blade and shaft area (piece of the far left of the photo above). I wanted to "freehand" this paddle to end up with a cedar replica of the Attikamekw paddle I've grown quite fond off. After sufficient axework in the bush, it was brought back to the cottage lakeside to finish off with my newly made Olive Wood crooked knife to do the final shaping. The knife worked great and the whole thing was evenly shaped very quickly.


Shaping with the crooked knife

A tripper-style grip with a mushroom head design was selected and shaped quite easily with a knife and rasp. Although as it was worked more and more, large chunks split off resulting in a thinner and smaller grip than intentioned. Despite being from the lower end of the tree, there were large internal knots to contend with which weren't visible when the log was being cut. Fortunately, I arranged these into the blade and grip areas.


Blade worked down; Blade closeup with knot; Final shape

I excitely took the paddle out to try with bark canoe and it worked well enough. Cedar is a springy, ultralight wood and it felt great using it with boat. I thought the blade could've been thinned out a little more however, since it didn't have the flex I desired. Once back in the garage, I tried flexing it to get a feel for it and SNAP...the blade ripped off right below the throat.


Snap, Crackle, POP!

The cruel fact is that I should've been more selective about the original cedar log. The pronounced twist in the grain resulted in a bowed, uneven shaft and the knots would've certainly weakened the wood. Perhaps leaving the whole thing thicker than usual would've prevented the breakage. In any event (I'm trying to be more positive lately), it was a fun way to spend the afternoon, some lessons were learned, and a fantasticly aromatic, cedar fire was had that night. But I haven't given up on making a bush paddle yet.



Sunday, November 1, 2009

Canoe Tump Project: Part 2 - Assembly

Obtained all the supplies for the tumpline project (LINK to PART 1). I already had a scrap piece of 2" wide 10oz latigo leather in my possession, left over from another non-canoe related project (made a hanging strop for a straight razor). The leather strip seemed a perfect length for the headpiece.

The tails are made from 5/8" wide latigo strips that are 6ft long. I'll probably shorten these once I start fiddling with the right length for the canoe yoke. But this'll have to wait until I'm up north again before I can test it out on the boat.

For fasteners, I noted that the NW Woodsman version used brass Chicago Screws which seem sturdy enough for this project. If not, I could alway attach copper rivets but didn't have any on hand at the time. Simple work with the hole punch, a little trimming and she's good to go.


The materials


Holes punched and edges trimmed


Inserting the brass Chicago Screws


Completed Tumpline



Another angle

Apparently there's a trick to prevent the screw fasteners from loosening - adding a bit of nail polish which dries to form a tight bond. Never thought I'd have to rummage through the wife's cosmetic bag, but it's for a good cause right?



Friday, October 30, 2009

Exotic Paddle Series (4) - New Zealand Hoe

A beautifully carved Maori paddle (Hoe) from Steve Pyne. The blade is stunning of course, but check out the hollowed loop on the shaft. Never seen anything like it!


Details & Description from his site:
Hoe is a canoe paddle. The highly decorated versions would normally be used for ceremonial purposes by the Chief's. Decorative work in which notched ridges run parallel to one, two or three plain ridges is termed Rauponga. Within the design the plain ridges are known as Patapata and the hollows between the ridges as Haehae, while the notched ridge itself is termed Pakati. Each individual notch is an Arapata and they form a diamond pattern called Tuara-kuri. The eyes are inlaid with paua amore colourful relative of the abalone. The spirals serve as points of movement or joint marks, for the jaw, shoulders, elbow & hips. The "three fingered hand" is found on many ancestral figures, some also show a back-bending thumb or spur. This shows an avian feature superimposed on the human image.

Length: 1660mm
Width: 155mm



Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Canoe Tump Project - Part 1: The Design

One fascinating bit of traditional gear is the tumpline, basically a strap that placed across the crown of the head transfers weight to the person's frame rather than placing it on the shoulders allowing one to carry more weight with supposedly less effort. Many people curse the humble tumpline and cite that modern advances in building technology have made canoes and gear much lighter, thus rendering the tump system obsolete. Maybe so, but with my summer plans of tripping with the cedar canvas canoe and upper shoulder pain being a constant bother for me, I thought I'd revisit this piece of gear for my own canoe and try to make one for myself.

Cliff Jacobson's book on Expedition Canoeing writes about tumplines but his contracption involves sewing a canvas strip and securing it to the canoe with rubber straps and steel S-hooks...not appealing. Call me a nostalgia freak, but I wanted something a bit less "modern".

This Abnaki or Penobscot tump from the American Museum of Natural History is a woven from basswood cordage shows a typical native design although its construction is way beyond my current skill set.


AMNH Catalog No: 50.1/ 7611 - Tumpline

The forums at FrontierFolk.net have some replica designs of traditional tumps, although nothing I could spot that was meant for canoe portaging. Another design I came across was that on Bob Abrames' voyageur gear page pictured below. A combination of rivetted leather with woven cordage.


Bob Abrames' Voyageur Tump

In the end, I got the inspiration from one of my favourite sites about wildnerness canoeing, The Northwest Woodsman, which has some fantastic videos showing some wonderful backcountry. The emphasis on this site is on basic, traditional bushcraft rather than modern, ultralite techno. This page describing his tumpline has some fantastic pics and details of the general construction. I also came across Don Merchant's Pole & Paddle Company site which also has a page on leather tumps.


NW Woodsman Leather Canoe Tump

Strapped to the centre yoke

Ends can be used to lash in paddles too

The construction looks straight forward enough. I've already got a piece of latigo suitable for the headpiece will have to obtain some 3/4" latigo strips for the ties as well as getting some rivets. Update on this ongoing project soon.




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