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Marking out the panel cut
To form the stitch, a old Phillips head screwdriver was filed down to form a sharpened triangular point to serve as an awl. The wetted bark was carefully pierced in 3/4" intervals and the hole temporarily pegged with cedar bits until lashing with root. After about 5-7 pegs, I'd take them out and begin the saddle stitch with pieces of soaked root, tying off the shorted ends before continuing on with a new piece. This gives the exterior the appearance that the stitch is made with a single piece; in reality the inner side of the panel (eventually hidden under sheathing) shows the various lengths.
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Pegging & stitching; View of inside panel
I severely underestimated the time it would take to do the running saddle stitch. I assumed maybe an hour a side, but it took me nearly 5 hours with much needed breaks to do both sides of the canoe.
With this part done, I could move on to setting the inwales. This involved cutting up some "height sticks" that would serve to support the inwales at the appropriate measurements. I made some from extra pine staves and marked the height (in inches) appropriately on the back to ensure I didn't mix them up. After loosening the support stakes and stretching out the bark, the inwales were softened with boiling water, placed into position and weighted down with rocks.
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Putting the the inwale assembly
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Setting on height sticks; weighted down with rock
Up next, I have to carve some outwales so that the even more time consuming process of pegging and lashing the gunwales together can begin.
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3 comments:
Looks great, very rustic, keep up the good work. I posted a couple more pics of a birchbark conoe on my flicker site.
David
Thanks for posting the canoe pics and the extra info to my question. I'll try to track down the builder. I especially like the beaver etching at the bow. The improvised seats hanging from the gunwales are different too.
Regards,
Murat
Just ran into your blog. An exciting project which I will continue to follow.
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